We spent a cold starry night at the base of the Grampians mountains 260km west of Melbourne. The area is known as Gariwerd by the traditional owners of the land, the Djab Wurrung and Jardwardjali people. We had no reception and our phone batteries died, giving us some precious screen-free time to take in the surroundings. Our riders got their kit dusty and dirty, riding through rivers, muddy puddles, orange-red dusty tracks. We ate simple camp food next to a fire (with some Pana Hot Chocolate for good measure).